The service is predominant and rigorously attendant. Seemingly redundant as to be adjective of the service staff but in this setting, the duty is elevated. Beginning the moment you cross the threshold of The Dylan Hotel, itself tucked away behind an ivy-strangled wall and courtyard, is an evening-long observance to craft.
The restaurant itself lives down a quiet and refined hallway which then descends into a darker, but no less elegant, dining room. A literal symbol of culinary evolution and irony, the rustic interior previously served as an Amsterdam bakery before it was Vinkeles. With its generations-old brick and mortar, the restaurant evokes and channels the dedication to craft embedded in this plot of land. It is hard to ignore the history of a place that no doubt stood aptly as a symbol of community nourishment; as it still does today. The only difference being the depth and breadth of the experience; each discipline has been galvanized to a fanatical benchmark worthy of any of the best restaurants, chefs, and servers in the world.
Before one feels too weighted down by the circumstance and the vaguely religious setting the performative first course smacks with its jarring sleight of hand: a golden oyster concealing a brilliant pearl seemingly evaporates its silver exterior, releasing a rush of liqueur once it hits the tongue. As if to shake patrons from their rush to presumption, and judgment of what a first course should be. This mandatory cocktail deceives the senses and provides a cue to remember what fine dining is: fun, and hopefully surprising.
At this juncture, the meal begins to elevate beyond magic tricks to hard-nosed representations of French cooking plated with a Dutch sensibility. Duck and pigeon stood out among the core flavors permeating the array of classical vegetables which arouses a sense of the familiar for anyone with memories of good home-cooked meals. How apropos that seasonal apple pie and ice cream desserts conclude an evening that provides one with a sense of coziness and holiday.
The layperson or new-comer is wise to spring for the wine accompaniment, for the obvious behavioral benefits but also to see the world-class connoisseurship of the sommeliers; the specialists of the dining room who provide a fun, pressure-free invitation to learn something new. Call it dinner entertainment. Not only is the wine excellent, it will no doubt add a spark to an exceptional evening at, in my opinion, the best restaurant in the Netherlands.
Exciting meals always leave lasting impressions, this one is no exception. You will be inspired by the effect passion plays into creativity and attention to detail, with the result being Vinkeles. The team behind it deserves high praise.
Make an effort to visit Vinkeles any time you are in Amsterdam. Located in the Dylan Hotel: Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB Amsterdam, Netherlands
