The Best Pastéis de Nata in Portugal Are Not Where You've Been Told

It is impossible to research a trip to Portugal without being bombarded with entreaties to try Pastéis de Nata. These small custard tarts are a local staple much beloved by the portugese and tourists alike. The original description I read called them “egg tarts” which, not liking eggs, gave me much trepidation. My first Nata was at Manteigaria, and when I bit into the smooth and creamy on the inside, crisp and flaky on the outside, sweet, custardy goodness I thought there had been a mistake. It was delicious! Luckily I had five days left in Lisbon and an excuse to try a few more.

Every recommendation I read online said that you haven’t really had Pastéis de Nata until you’ve had them from Pastéis de Belém. Consistently marketed as the best Pastéis de Nata, Pastéis de Belém is known for having long lines and being worth the wait. And so, 25 minutes into my 35 minute bus trip to Belém (a neighborhood on the outskirts of Lisbon that is well worth a visit regardless of Natas), when I passed Pastéis de Belém and saw there was no one standing outside I hastily exited at the next stop and find myself walking not just into the building to stand, but second in line!

At this point I had tried Pastéis de Nata at 4 locations and discussed with friends and others I met while traveling, who had tried many others. Surprisingly, everyone I spoke to who had been to Manteigaria named it as their best nata. None of us had yet been to Pastéis de Belém, though. This was the true test. 

I was thrilled not having to wait in line and loved the cute decor of the restaurant and the packaging of the Natas, with its individual packets of cinnamon and powdered sugar. I got 2 hot Natas to go and happily headed to the park across the street to enjoy them. But when I bit in I couldn’t help but feel disappointed. The custard was chunky and dry and felt heavy in my mouth with a bland flavor compared to the others I had. I was glad I hadn’t waited in line for them and questioned if I had just forgotten what they tasted like and maybe, if this was the creme de la creme, had never really liked them at all. 

The line when I left, still considered short for Pasteis de Belem

I tried Natas from two more places before I left Portugal, bringing my total Nata consumption to an embarassing 7 stores and 18 natas in 5 days, and again at Manteigaria before I left. Obviously I can’t tell you the “Best” place to eat them because 7 is hardly a drop in the bucket of options you have in Portugal for eating Natas. However, of the places I tried and spoke about with others, Manteigaria was the clear winner. 

With convenient locations in Lisbon (TimeOut Market and Chiado) and Porto (Mercado do Bolhâo and near the Torre dos Clérigos) this should be an easy and rewarding choice for anyone visiting Portugal.